To avoid any misunderstanding, there wasn´t anybody in our WAGS group called Blanche who needed to be carted away, although in among the jostling crowds of other walking groups that we had to contend with that morning there may well have been someone or even two of that name.
No, it is just that our Leader for the day has given your Blogger a totally free hand to write whatever he will about the day´s events. She is adamant that she will not even submit a Leader´s report. So, here goes – Carte Blanche it is! Real News or Fake News: you, dear Reader, you decide.
First of all, a word or two about the day´s Leader. She is, of course, an AWW Emeritus, having done the complete Algarve Way in her time and having led several AWW walks. But, within the more exclusive and fastidious ranks of the WAGS, she has recently been promoted by the Powers That Be to the giddy heights of (have I got this right?) FULL LEADING WAG! (there is an acronym somewhere in there, struggling to get put.)
And this was to be her day of reckoning, the ultimate test. Would she be up to the task and able to live up to her new title? After all, it is one thing to lead a mob of semi-ignorant AWWs for miles and miles across the arid Algarve hills until their addled brains can´t think straight any longer and they come to accept anything that goes; the broad brush on canvass approach to Leadership as it were. But quite une autre affaire to provide a walk meeting the refined and exacting standards of the WAGS, finely tuned over the years, with strict parameters as to distance, timings, speed, not to mention standards of conversation; the skills of the miniaturist in comparison to the graffiti dauber. And all this to be accomplished in front of a highly experienced and highly critical jury. Probably more stressful than taking one´s driving test.
And so it was that we gathered for a 10 am start,at Carrapateira´s estimable Café Bravo to be greeted by the café´s proprietress with her customary beaming smile. The café´s opening hours are now displayed on its window – “10.00 – 16.30, Secunda – Sesta” –take it or leave it. The town has smartened itself up. There is a shiny new town sign, around which we gathered for the Starter photo, and a spanking new Turismo office, due to open any year now. And crowded! I thought that Venice had been bad enough a few weeks ago but this was unreal – walkers, walkers every where, jostling for coffees.
The Starters
Leader (and Examinee): Ingrid
Panel of Assessors: Rod, Maria, Hilke, Dina, Yves, Hazel, and JohnH.
Getting our starting coffees took a bit of time, what with the crowds, but we managed to set off just before 10.30 am, within WAGS norms. The Leader´s first task was to set a measured speed so as not to bump into a large group of tourist walkers who had set off just in front of us. Luckily they headed to Amado beach while we headed for the hills. Ingrid consulted her local guide (a.k.a. Rod) who seemed determined at this stage to lead her astray. But, having been led down the garden path so that we seemed about to be faced with a bit of unplanned scrambling, she had second thoughts (see Map), put her foot down and raised her voice, and told us all to back-track.
Back we went, which enabled the photographers among us to snap some cows and their cowherd.
Soon we were on familiar ground, doing one of the Whittles´walks in reverse. When we paused in some shade for some refreshment, Yves took the opportunity to exhibit one of his prized possessions, his French Army knife.
In case you can´t distinguish between this utensil and the better known Swiss variety, this little diagram may help.
We crossed the N268 where Maria did her usual thing picking flowers
with this result.
The Leader resisted the temptation to swing left onto the Monte Velho track and stuck to the tarmac road leading down into the Vilarinha valley –an astute move since it gave us just the right number of kilometres in the end. It was noticeable that several of the previously grottier cottages in the valley have been restored and converted into holiday lets. Much whitewash in evidence.
Down on the valley floor and now in a homeward direction, we made our way past the Alojamento Local of Herdade do Beiçudo, which too was looking pretty smart.
Conversation turned to the meaning of that word “beiçudo” and speculation of why the Herdade uses that name. The normal dictionary translation of the word into English is “thick-lipped”, but why would one describe one´s homestead as “thick-lipped”? Here the Local Guide´s limitless historical knowledge came up with an explanation. Apparently, in years gone by, the property was owned by some expatriate horsey types, one of whose horses suffered from a malformation of the mouth going by the name “beiçudo”. In English veterinary terminology, this is known as “underbite”, not to be confused, as of course you will well understand, with “overbite”.
An underbite (monkey mouth, sowmouth, prognathism) is a deformity in which the lower incisors extend beyond the upper incisors.
An overbite (parrot mouth, brachygnathism) is a congenital deformity in which the upper incisors overlap the lower incisors.
Last week, ticks; this week, horses´ teeth. Yup, conversation well upto standard. We dealt with fear of ticks last week. There doesn´t seem to be any phobia specifically for horses teeth, so we will settle for the more general Equinophobia
Equinophobia is an extreme fear of horses. The word is derived from the Latin word 'equus' which means horses and phobos which is 'deep fear or dread
Even so, Beiçudo is a strange name for a bed and breakfast establishment.
After this, the group spread out along the road somewhat and I was bringing up the rear, so I missed out on some discussions of Rod´s tentative proposal for a lateral WAGS walk from Bensafrim to Carrapateira, which (I think) may involve overnight accommodation, whether at Herdade do Beiçudo or at the other Alojamento Casa Fajara (see Map). That establishment, which we walked past towards the end of our stroll, also seems to have been smartened up recently.
(We can deal with the meaning of "Fajara" in a future Blog.)
The Statistics
Total distance: 11.8 kms. Total time: 3 hrs 21 minutes.
Moving time: 2 hrs 45 minutes. Moving average: 4.4 kph.
Total ascent: 311 metres.
(All logistical parameters satisfied.)
And what about the food back at Café Bravo. I only caught a glimpse of a bifana or two disappearing too quickly for my camera, but I did hear good things said about their garlic and piri-piri dressing. My tosta mista was near perfection, toasted just right, and well-filled.
The Perfect Tosta Mista
Washed down with H2O
And, finally, did the Leader meet the required standards? The votes are still being counted and the result will be announced on Sunday in Brussels, along with the EU results. But for the record, your Blogger voted “YES”.
Thank you John for again a great blog and coming to my rescue and not abusing the “Carte Blanche” and of course for your vote!
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