Monday, 30 January 2017

WAGS St Vincent Walk: Day One - Sunday 22 01 2017

 

This blog, covering the WAGS celebration of St Vincent´s Day 2017, will be in three (possibly four) parts. This is the first part, written hot off the trail, by Paul, and it deals with the Sunday´s walk.  This is then followed by two more contemplative or recollective pieces penned by the indefatigable Rod several days after the events and after he had composed and delivered an altogether ground-breaking post-political-correctional Toast to the Lassies for Burns Night. The first of Rod´s two  pieces  covers the Sunday evening meal. The second one deals with the Monday´s walk. And then, for the fourth part of the blog, in addition to the statistics, we may with luck be able to persuade Myriam to describe the post-walk Monday lunch.With such profusion of literary talent at our service, it will best if your blogger now curbs his penchant for the blue pen and hands over to Paul.

WAGS 22/23/01/2017 - NOT the RTC

We do not know if Saint Vincent of Saragossa was a Walker but, given the price and availability of transport in the 3rd Century, it is probable that he was. On the other hand, it is very doubtful that he ever was a Geriatric, although no record exists of his age at the time of his savage martyrdom in 304 AD in Valencia.

His connection with the Algarve and the Cape that is named after him is that, after his martyrdom, his body was put in a sack and thrown into the sea. The body was recovered by his Christian followers who had it conducted to a monastery at what is now Cape St Vincent and a shrine was erected over him, which was guarded by ravens. Ravens had apparently kept vultures away from his body in Spain while he was being recovered from the sea.

What is a definite fact is that his Feast Day is 22nd January, and so, having adopted him as our Patron Saint as AWWs some years previously, the WAGS have now taken on the mantle of keeping his memory alive, thus usurping the role of the Ravens. 

And so it came to pass that, on 22nd January 2017, we arranged a two-day penance in the form of two walks on consecutive days, interrupted by an evening Feast in Vila do Bispo. Rod had organised 9 rooms in the Mira Sagres Hotel, which oddly enough is in Vila do Bispo, and had booked a splendid feast for dinner at Café Correia which, oddly enough again, is right next door to the town´s Correio.

First day walkers are shown in pre-start photos, which also reveal that the weather was not quite as ordered, being rather cold, somewhat overcast and initially prone to a light drizzle.



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There were 17 walkers on the Saints Day, 22nd January, starting at the sculpture park near the Trilho Ambiental on the way to Castelejo. As it was to be a lateral walk, finishing at the Cape, rather complex transport arrangements were innovated on the day, and amazingly proved rather successful, and fortunately we had Susan available to mount a rescue if needed, as sadly she had strained a muscle and to her very evident dismay was unable to join the walk.

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At the start: John, Geraldine, Maria, Hazel, Susan, Paul, Antje, Rod, Myriam, Hilke, Gita, Lindsey, Thyl and  Ingrid (in a Belgian show of unity),Chris, Andrew, Richard, and Janet

We set off almost at 11am as planned, along the broad sandy paths towards the Torre de Aspe.

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Barely 300 metres into the walk, the first excitement occurred, when Myriam investigated a small bag by the side of the road and found that it contained three pairs of clean knickers. This, as you can imagine, provoked intense speculation, but the hopes that it was the first of many similar stashes along the way proved groundless. Some said that they were labelled St Vincent's, but it is more likely they were St Michael's!

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Male, female, or convertible?

Despite a little precipitation and the usual halts for robing and disrobing, we made good time, and on reaching the crossroads, the committee decided to take the option of visiting the Coastguard House and the Torre de Aspe, which added a couple of kilometers to the route. Chris, who had seen both many times before opted to continue slowly on with Antje, cutting out the optional excursion and waiting for us to catch up.

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Alas, the Coastguard House is even more vandalised than on our last visit, not a pane of glass unbroken and all furniture and fittings inside damaged. It is a splendid site though and nearby the views North up the coast are spectacular.



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The old hands indulged themselves in a sea of nostalgia recalling the glories of the RTC days when, to reach this point, we had to negotiate a not inconsiderable climb to the House.

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Nostalgia demands monochrome

And in those days we could do so, though the general consensus was that our current approach was quite agreeable and has the same result.

Back round a slightly different path to Aspe, always impressive close up, and just time for a photo or two, and we caught Chris and Antje up after about 15 minutes.

Torre de Aspe, can be seen for miles

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The path to the Cape was easy and fast including a short break for those who brought sandwiches and some spectacular cliff views.

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Soon we got to the start of the descent to Praia de Telheiro, where we all successfully negotiated the safety ladder. Maria even managed a quick twerk* on the ladder, but I was not fast enough to capture it on video.

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Most climbed down back to the camera…

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….but Andrew preferred the full-frontal approach.

*( “Twerk” , by the way, is an early 19th Century coinage for a movement perhaps a blend of twitching and jerking, now revived in the patois of discos specialising in hip-hop; I´m sure that Paul can elaborate.)

Susan was waiting at the Telheiro Car Park with the ambulance, and Chris, Hilke and Geraldine availed themselves of this health service for various reasons, and took the fast route to the Cape.



The Health Service awaits

By this stage our progress and underestimation of the distance meant we had to step it out to achieve our ETA of 1530 hours. The reason for our need to arrive at that time was that a ceremony had been planned to inaugurate a statue conceived, created and provided by a Finnish part-time resident of the Algarve, Rikki Graunhe. We had met Rikki a while ago as he explained his reasons inspiring, and his tribulations in realising, his dream of getting the statue erected in the Lighthouse compound at Cape St Vincent. Too much to detail here but it is a credit to his tenacity and perseverance that the statue had arrived and was positioned in time for the Bishop of Faro and the President of the Vila do Bispo Camara to inaugurate it on this year´s Feast Day.

We arrived, strung out along the road, in heavy, driving rain that started when we were about 15 minutes away, and was enough to soak most unprepared WAGS fairly comprehensively. The ceremony, unusually for one in this part of the Algarve, started almost bang on time. The Bishop must have had an understanding with his boss, though, as the rain paused during the ceremony which was attended by a couple of hundred tourists and villagers bussed in for the event with a posse of wet and weary WAGS as witnesses.

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A couple of short speeches, a touch of choral music, and the idiosyncratic statue was exposed to the elements for the foreseeable future. It will need to be enduring and hardy as its subject, though perhaps the form is not to everyone's taste.

Towards 4:30 pm we felt our obligations to our Patron Saint had been discharged, and so miraculously boarded just the right number of cars and returned to the Hotel for beer, showers and preprandial relaxation, before the evening's festivities.

Saturday, 21 January 2017

WAGS 18.01.2017: The Amble of Wounded Knee

With the Big WOTY, the S. VICENTE birthday extravaganza coming up next Sunday, a relaxed inland walk was in order, and Rod came up with a shortish outing from Retiro dos Pescadores in Pedreira. This was partly because he was protecting his knee - the same one damaged and rested the previous week, and couldn't afford any further problems ahead of our weekend homage.
       This week there were mass defections from regular WAGS to the AWWs as Antje was leading from Carrapateira. We are expecting intelligence reports to be filed from our double agents imminently.

The line up, in the absence of John and his Gorillapod, is shown without the photographer.


L-R Thyl, Rod, Hilke, Hazel, Myriam, Chris, Tony (Not pictured, Paul)

The keen-eyed will spot Thyl, an old hand, making a comeback. He was in a very genial mood, enjoying everything and regaling us with plenty of tales.  Hazel and Chris had voted to remain WAGS this week despite the defection of their partners. It was good to see Tony out with his dogs after a couple of weeks managing a major building project in his garden.

   A pleasant route out along a green valley which was cold, being shaded from the winter sun. We went out on the left bank of the gully, which contained little water, climbed up, admired the views, descended and returned along the other left bank of the valley.  Hazel and Chris had stayed true to the WAGS while their partners and Geraldine had defected. I am confident that the defections were not to seek a more sophisticated level of conversation or alternative world views, but as you can imagine, two days away from the controversial inauguration of the 45th POTUS, there were some sanguine views expressed.

The route.




Not too much to reveal in terms of action. We were all relieved when Rod's descent of a rather overgrown path came out exactly where he hoped it would without being too precipitous, and saved us either backtracking or adding a couple more km to the circuit.

A few random pix to add colour:-


She dwelt amongst untrodden ways....


  Des. Res. Excellent views, needs some attention.


The views from the terrace of the Des. Res.












Earnest discussion of potential.


The Silves view. You really can see the castle from here.



Wending the Weary WAGS Way back

The total walk was just under 10km, and took us 3 hrs 12 minutes at a very leisurely pace. About 300m of climb, and we arrived back at Retiro ready for our usual vittles. Myriam and Hazel were delighted to find the dish of the day was Jardineira of Jawali, and very good it was too. Others had the soup which was reportedly excellent, and all were very inexpensive.

An enjoyable standard WAGS Walk, just enough to set us up for the weekend.


"The only way around is through."

                                              Robert Frost

Friday, 13 January 2017

WAGS 11.01.2017: S. Vicente Walk: Day 2 Recce. Vila do Bispo

Paul was invited to write the report of last Wednesday´s  Recce and he duly obliged. So here is his submission, modestly described in his own words as  
a small but beautifully parsed piece of purple prose.”
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At last we had some Hope. Not that the recce for our two-day S.Vicente commemorative walk would be accomplished, but that 2 of the 3 potentially available Hopes had recovered sufficiently from their sniffles to assist in the venture. So the pathfinder party consisted of John, Hazel, Ingrid, Chris, Antje, Myriam, Peter, Rod and Paul plus Sasha to keep any local chickens or lambs on their toes. This was a good quorum for an untried route that the party would repeat in less than two weeks.
John, Hazel and Ingrid went directly to a coffee shop near Hotel Mira Sagres, which confusingly is in Vila do Bispo, and waited for the other 6 who had met in Cafe Bairro, Lagos to pool transport, but still required 3 cars to proceed.
Happily, despite being delayed en route by the efforts of the road painting crew, heavily supported by Brigado Transito, who were repainting the lines on the ground at the redundant traffic lights near Alma Verde, which could easily have been just another roundabout, both parties met at about 1040 and, after the customary pit stop, posed for a nice group photo in front of the magnificent Vila do Bispo communal WC.
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By careful position of Paul´s Tilley, the tell-tale WC sign is obscured - the art of the camera.
Rod was suffering from an injured knee and besides had some important admin duties to perform at Cabo S. Vicente, the Hotel and Cafe Correia, so he didn´t walk. 4 km into the walk, Chris wisely turned back, so that Rod would not have to drink alone at the coffee shop after completing his duties with a side trip to see the lovely Dr Jo at Luzdoc (picture unavailable).
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The Track
Statistics: Distance, say 14 km. Moving Time, 3 hrs 5 mins. Moving speed, 4.3 kph. Climb, only 281m.
The walk, conducted in glorious spring weather, was very pleasant and fairly uneventful. Some spring flowers were already out and some almond blossom was showing.
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In the background, Myriam, Ingrid, Peter and Hazel can be seen negotiating the price of estrume with the farmer: “€10 no saco- €9 do it yourself.”
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No problems
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Note the banana
A little consternation arose when my marked track headed across a new fence, but we found a gate secured with a rope that could be unfastened
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and refastened
In an area well-known for its megaliths, an eagle-eyed WAG spotted one of our own  - well, more of a microlith really, in the form of a petrified dog.

Fido-dum

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There it is.
The famous Quinta de Peniche was our landmark, looking a little more weathered than our last visit, but we rehearsed the photo on the steps for old times sake.
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A friendly estate manager drove up while we were there, so Myriam managed to grill him for the latest news. Apparently the grandchildren of the owner have decided to do something with the long abandoned estate, and are planning to convert it into a Turismo Rural Accommodation. Asked when, he said “Soon”, so you can imagine we didn't rush to vacate the property, and are hoping it is still there when we do our walk on 23rd.

The stony descent path to the Barranco valley was found easily, the only slightly difficult part of the walk. Then the long up slope towards Raposeira initially on the jigsaw road blocks which are gradually moving out of place and a danger to tyres.
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With a bit of imagination and extra EU funding, the bricks  could have been yellow
In order to avoid carrying on to Raposeira, I had spotted on my Google Earth recce, a short cut through back up to the plateau towards Vila do Bispo. When we arrived, we found it to be a nicely landscaped track leading to the entrances to a couple of properties, and marked with a pseudo-official sign stating 'Passagem Proibido excepto em emergencias'. We had a short committee meeting and decided that 'They could not be Serious' and in any event it was an emergency as the restaurant in Vila do Bispo might close before we got there and Peter needed a beer for his back, so we headed through past a couple of friendly donkeys in a paddock, and some less friendly dogs, racing round a wisely fenced garden.
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Nearly home
We arrived in the square in Vila do Bispo at shortly after 1440 having taken a leisurely 3 hrs 40 minutes for the walk, to find Rod and Chris reclining in the sun on the coffee shop terrace. Ingrid, as is her wont had ate her luncheon sandwiches on the hoof with a banana or two, so only stayed for a coffee.
For the rest, it was a short trip to Restaurant Palheira, which Dona Elena kept open and served us a welcome array of vittles including vegetable soup, fish soup, fried squid, a trencherwoman's portion of grilled pork meats for Hazel, and a massive dourada which Myriam and I shared.
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Watch those frites
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Satisfied that all arrangements were in hand Rod headed off, shortly followed by Chris and Antje and eventually the rest of us followed, John kindly giving us a lift back to Lagos in Hazel's car, as unfortunately his two seater Italian machine hasn't arrived yet. Will it be a Ferrari or a Lambretta?
“Look at every path closely and deliberately, then ask ourselves this crucial question: Does this path have a heart? If it does, then the path is good. If it doesn't, it is of no use.”






































Thursday, 5 January 2017

WAGS 04.01.2017: Not so much a Walk - more a Fact Finding Mission.

The call circular for the first walk of 2017 was published, and treated with a fair amount of Post-Christmas apathy. Brief and to the point:-

"The walk this Wednesday will be basically a recce for one of the two walks we intend to do on our St Vincent's Commemoration on 22/23 January. If you need the exercise then meet at Cafe do Bairro behind our place in Lagos before 10am and we will sort out cars to go to Vila do Bispo. Hopefully it will be normal WAGS standard,  but it may take a bit longer than usual,  so don't expect to make early afternoon hairdressing,  medical or romantic assignations,  just in case!"

Of the two written replies received, both were apologies, Tony for having trouble with his walls (not a misprint) and Hilke having arranged to help a friend in the afternoon. Somehow all the Hopes were down with man flu, and so it was with great pleasure that the 3 of us, Rod, Myriam and Paul were surprised to see Peter turn up in his car at the appointed hour, at the Cafe de Bairro.  Apparently having been faced with the option of a walk into the unknown, or to stay at home at the beck and call of a tyrannical female, he had made a break for it and left Inky at home.

A leisurely discussion of parameters ensued and we arrived at Vila do Bispo before 11 am to commence a recce in Rod's ATV.  We drove out first to the Capela de Santo Antonio, as a possible waypoint en route and as a by product established that my cache there was missing. We carried on towards the coast by car and parked up to recce the section to Praia de Telheiro on foot. Lucky we did, as our local knowledge proved a bit rusty as we had parked about 2 km short of where we needed and we followed two dead end tracks towards the coast before we realised our error. However not all bad as on these two side trips I found two geocaches.

On the way we met an English couple, whose pace was a little faster than ours who claimed to be walking the same route as us, basically a section of the Rota Vicentina, but were aiming to get to Cape St Vincent and then walk back to Vila do Bispo. They passed us near the ladder section of the Praia de Telheiro and we wished them luck.




 An overcast day at the coast





Studying technique............





........and applying the lesson

   Shortly after this we turned back towards the car, reaching it at about 1330 hrs after walking 7.5 km. After some discussion and a look at the distances involved we decided it would be better to start the days walk outside Vila do Bispo at the sculptures on the way to Castelejo near the Trilho Ambiente. The proposed track for the real thing on 22nd January looks like this:-


Proposed Day 1 Track (right to left)

This, with the side trips to the Coastguard House and Torre d'Aspe works out at just over 16 km, ie more than half the RTC distance, but with only one real down and up at Praia de Telheiro, so should be doable in 4-5 hours which is a bit longer than our regular forays, but there will be options for those who need them.  Transport will be worked out nearer the day. The start is not a problem, but the walkers will need to be met and picked up at Cape St Vincent in the afternoon. If you are attending but not walking, we are grateful for any volunteers., but are investigating a taxi option, just in case.
     As is customary, and having worked up a healthy appetite in the West Coast air, we rechecked the excellent cooking at Cafe Correia, our intended venue for the Sunday evening meal, andwhich is just across the road from the Hotel Mira Sagres.
     I can safely report that the food is excellent, and we dined well on pig's cheeks and stuffed squid Correia style. Rod and Myriam thrashed out the menu for Sunday 22nd with Dona Lilita and her son Sergio, of which those attending will hear further on Rods operational order for the event.

    Next weeks WAGs walk will be part 2 of the recce for Day 2 which will possibly be a circular walk to the south via the Quinta on whose steps we invariably posed on the RTC walks.  Aaah nostalgia.   It will be around 13 km hopefully, so looking forward to seeing you all on the day.