WAGS St Vincent Walk: Day Two–Monday 23 01 2017

 

If you have read thus far, I am sure you get the picture by now which is  that this blog, covering the WAGS celebration of St Vincent´s Day 2017, is in four parts. The first part, written by Paul, dealt with the Sunday´s walk.  Then came the  second part, the first of Rod´s two  pieces, covering the Sunday evening´s festivities. This, the third part and Rod´s second bit, describes the Monday´s walk. And then, for the fourth part of the blog, in addition to providing the maps and statistics without which no self-respecting WAGS´ nor even AWWs´ blog could possibly be complete, we may still be able to persuade Myriam to describe the post-walk Monday lunch. These introductory blue paragraphs are also simply preliminary waffle designed, as you can see, to fill the space beside the right hand margin of the WAGS template pending redesign by its Owner. Now, without further ado, over to Rod for his second contribution.

 

Furthest South

Day 2

Perhaps, after all that jollity, it was a good thing that we did not have to stir too early for the Day 2 walk ...a reasonable breakfast was served but not until 08.30, and we were starting from the Hotel itself so no complicated transport logisitics were called for and we managed to set off fairly near the appointed hour of 10.00.  This was a circular walk heading towards the south coast which had been recced a couple of week before.

At the start, Vila do Bispo.

Gita had voted in favour of discretion and a morning of leisure, Paul had pleaded an old war wound/rugby injury (take your pick – he took the photo vide his shadow), and Chris had opted for a shorter stroll, so it was only 14 of us who set off  on the long march towards the coast.

After clearing town, we headed off over the typical open rolling farm land, where  Ingrid´s  and Janet´s initial enthusiasm for the trail was such that they had to be reprimanded for breaking the official WAGS speed limit. We then descended at our more accustomed pace through some semi-private land where we paused to admire and feed a couple of fine looking donkeys.

After this we followed the main track, a long, long stretch of it paved with bricks  courtesy the EU,  down towards Praia de Barranco.

The not-so Yellow Brick Road

But before having to reach the beach, now only famous for the litter and other even filthier detritus deposited by a sadly uncontrolled mob of travellers, we were able to join the old RTC route when, after some momentary hesitation,  Antje could identify a strategic bush she  remembered from the earlier recce and we ascended the rocky, diagonal path up to the plateau.

This was old and well known territory now and brought back many happy memories. We headed straight for the trig point (some of us spotting the Torre de Apse in the far distance to the north-west) and an inevitable stop ensued while Maria did her habitual stuff up top.

Then it was on to the great farmhouse. Despite rumours of the family wanting to build 5 star hotels, golf courses and all, the farmhouse, only a little more dilapidated, was much as we remembered it. At least the steps up the side were still there and of course photos had to be taken again, for old times sake, despite murmured protestations from the troops that the wind was cold.

It was quite tempting to carry on west here along the old RTC route, but north we had to turn, along the main farm track used still mostly by cows , goats, sheep and shepherds....although one of them was taking it easy in a 4x4!

We met up with Chris at the point planned ( he had started off from V do B in the opposite direction as a shorter walk). The wind was now increasing in strength to gale force, protective clothing was donned and Myriam placed heavy stones in her pockets for stabilty.

North we went, past the petrified dog,

through the fence and then followed the Via Algarviana trail back to town, Thyl going at a great lick.

Ignoring further complaints about the wind, we paused for a final group shot

entered town being watched by some geese and cows,

 

and som eof us then adjourned for lunch in another eatery there. (To be described perhaps by Myriam!)

WAGS St Vincent Walk: The Feast – Sunday 22 01 2017

This blog, covering the WAGS celebration of St Vincent´s Day 2017, is in three (possibly four) parts. The first part, written hot off the trail, by Paul, dealt with the Sunday´s walk.  Then come two more contemplative or recollective pieces penned by the indefatigable Rod several days after the events because in between he had had to compose and delivere an altogether ground-breaking post-political-correctionalist Toast to the Lassies at Burns Night. This, the  second part of the blog, is the first of Rod´s two  pieces  and it covers the Sunday evening meal. The third part, Rod´s second bit, will describe the Monday´s walk. And then, for the fourth part of the blog, in addition to the statistics, we may with luck be able to persuade Myriam to describe the post-walk Monday lunch.With such profusion of literary talent at our service, it remains advisable that your blogger continues to keep off stage as much as possible, save to apologise this time round for the quality of some of the photographs in this section, the indoor halogen lighting playing merry hell with digital camera focusing. At least that´s our photographers´ excuse; nothing to do with the G & T´s or the red wine. Now, over to Rod.
 

The afore-mentioned preprandial relaxation involved extra-large gins and tonics

Having dried out, rested and showered after Day 1´s physical and cultural activities it was comforting to know that we only had to stagger across the road from the Hotel to the much anticipated dinner at Café Correia. This family owned and run restaurant is highly respected by the local cognoscenti and most certainly did not disappoint.

Zé Francisco hard at work
The party was joined by  Artur Jesus and his charming wife Ana...Artur being of course the fount of all knowledge of things cultural and historical in the Vila do Bispo Câmara, now well known to most of us. 

Peter, Sonia, Ana, Ze´ Francisco and Artur Jesus
Of those who had walked that day, Ingrid and Janet had preferred to go home for the night but we were more than compensated for their absence by the presence of Mike and Jyll Pease and Peter and Sonia Schroder. And so it was that 22 folk sat down for a dinner which really did live up to  the restaurant´s reputation.
Zé Francisco Dias Batista, his wife Lelita and their son Sergio kept us enthralled with dish after dish of the food for which they are famous.

Potfuls of splendid vegetable soup and platefuls of boiled prawns opened proceedings. This was followed by Lulas á Correia..lulas as you have never had before; tender and in a delicious sauce, and great potfuls of Camarâo  Guisado.

 

After that came even more potfuls of Cabidela de Galinha, and deliciously tender Façeiras de Porco.  Pud was an enormous rich Alfarroba, Amendôa and Figo Tarte. 

All this was washed down by a never ending flow of white and red wines together at the end with the inevitable medronhos, some relatively innocuous con mel, others the real McCoy at 50 plus.

Was it this that encouraged Paul to display the Body? Who now knows?
 

(Rod said a few words of appreciation to the Batista family and for their food, and also mentioned that Artur Jesus has recently published a history book.)
At this point Sergio´s brother appeared on the scene and, despite working in the Finanças!, he proved to be an extremely accomplished ´accordionista´. 

 

Musical chairs - the chairs lost

Swaying to the music

  He entertained us with a very wide ranging repertoire which at one point even roused John and Antje to cavort round the floor performing a rather curious blend of some local folk dance and The Gay Gordons.
 

 (Antje thought she was rehearsing The Eightsome Reel or The Dashing White Sergeant which was why she kept on trying to get one of the nearby chairs to join in.)
 
A splendidly jolly evening indeed.

WAGS St Vincent Walk: Day One - Sunday 22 01 2017

 

This blog, covering the WAGS celebration of St Vincent´s Day 2017, will be in three (possibly four) parts. This is the first part, written hot off the trail, by Paul, and it deals with the Sunday´s walk.  This is then followed by two more contemplative or recollective pieces penned by the indefatigable Rod several days after the events and after he had composed and delivered an altogether ground-breaking post-political-correctional Toast to the Lassies for Burns Night. The first of Rod´s two  pieces  covers the Sunday evening meal. The second one deals with the Monday´s walk. And then, for the fourth part of the blog, in addition to the statistics, we may with luck be able to persuade Myriam to describe the post-walk Monday lunch.With such profusion of literary talent at our service, it will best if your blogger now curbs his penchant for the blue pen and hands over to Paul.

WAGS 22/23/01/2017 - NOT the RTC

We do not know if Saint Vincent of Saragossa was a Walker but, given the price and availability of transport in the 3^rd Century, it is probable that he was. On the other hand, it is very doubtful that he ever was a Geriatric, although no record exists of his age at the time of his savage martyrdom in 304 AD in Valencia.

His connection with the Algarve and the Cape that is named after him is that, after his martyrdom, his body was put in a sack and thrown into the sea. The body was recovered by his Christian followers who had it conducted to a monastery at what is now Cape St Vincent and a shrine was erected over him, which was guarded by ravens. Ravens had apparently kept vultures away from his body in Spain while he was being recovered from the sea.

What is a definite fact is that his Feast Day is 22^nd January, and so, having adopted him as our Patron Saint as AWWs some years previously, the WAGS have now taken on the mantle of keeping his memory alive, thus usurping the role of the Ravens. 

And so it came to pass that, on 22^nd January 2017, we arranged a two-day penance in the form of two walks on consecutive days, interrupted by an evening Feast in Vila do Bispo. Rod had organised 9 rooms in the Mira Sagres Hotel, which oddly enough is in Vila do Bispo, and had booked a splendid feast for dinner at Café Correia which, oddly enough again, is right next door to the town´s Correio.

First day walkers are shown in pre-start photos, which also reveal that the weather was not quite as ordered, being rather cold, somewhat overcast and initially prone to a light drizzle.

There were 17 walkers on the Saints Day, 22^nd January, starting at the sculpture park near the Trilho Ambiental on the way to Castelejo. As it was to be a lateral walk, finishing at the Cape, rather complex transport arrangements were innovated on the day, and amazingly proved rather successful, and fortunately we had Susan available to mount a rescue if needed, as sadly she had strained a muscle and to her very evident dismay was unable to join the walk.

At the start: John, Geraldine, Maria, Hazel, Susan, Paul, Antje, Rod, Myriam, Hilke, Gita, Lindsey, Thyl and  Ingrid (in a Belgian show of unity),Chris, Andrew, Richard, and Janet

We set off almost at 11am as planned, along the broad sandy paths towards the Torre de Aspe.

Barely 300 metres into the walk, the first excitement occurred, when Myriam investigated a small bag by the side of the road and found that it contained three pairs of clean knickers. This, as you can imagine, provoked intense speculation, but the hopes that it was the first of many similar stashes along the way proved groundless. Some said that they were labelled St Vincent's, but it is more likely they were St Michael's!

Male, female, or convertible?

Despite a little precipitation and the usual halts for robing and disrobing, we made good time, and on reaching the crossroads, the committee decided to take the option of visiting the Coastguard House and the Torre de Aspe, which added a couple of kilometers to the route. Chris, who had seen both many times before opted to continue slowly on with Antje, cutting out the optional excursion and waiting for us to catch up.

Alas, the Coastguard House is even more vandalised than on our last visit, not a pane of glass unbroken and all furniture and fittings inside damaged. It is a splendid site though and nearby the views North up the coast are spectacular.

The old hands indulged themselves in a sea of nostalgia recalling the glories of the RTC days when, to reach this point, we had to negotiate a not inconsiderable climb to the House.

Nostalgia demands monochrome

And in those days we could do so, though the general consensus was that our current approach was quite agreeable and has the same result.

Back round a slightly different path to Aspe, always impressive close up, and just time for a photo or two, and we caught Chris and Antje up after about 15 minutes.

Torre de Aspe, can be seen for miles

The path to the Cape was easy and fast including a short break for those who brought sandwiches and some spectacular cliff views.

Soon we got to the start of the descent to Praia de Telheiro, where we all successfully negotiated the safety ladder. Maria even managed a quick twerk* on the ladder, but I was not fast enough to capture it on video.

Most climbed down back to the camera…

….but Andrew preferred the full-frontal approach.

*( “Twerk” , by the way, is an early 19th Century coinage for a movement perhaps a blend of twitching and jerking, now revived in the patois of discos specialising in hip-hop; I´m sure that Paul can elaborate.)

Susan was waiting at the Telheiro Car Park with the ambulance, and Chris, Hilke and Geraldine availed themselves of this health service for various reasons, and took the fast route to the Cape.

The Health Service awaits

By this stage our progress and underestimation of the distance meant we had to step it out to achieve our ETA of 1530 hours. The reason for our need to arrive at that time was that a ceremony had been planned to inaugurate a statue conceived, created and provided by a Finnish part-time resident of the Algarve, Rikki Graunhe. We had met Rikki a while ago as he explained his reasons inspiring, and his tribulations in realising, his dream of getting the statue erected in the Lighthouse compound at Cape St Vincent. Too much to detail here but it is a credit to his tenacity and perseverance that the statue had arrived and was positioned in time for the Bishop of Faro and the President of the Vila do Bispo Camara to inaugurate it on this year´s Feast Day.

We arrived, strung out along the road, in heavy, driving rain that started when we were about 15 minutes away, and was enough to soak most unprepared WAGS fairly comprehensively. The ceremony, unusually for one in this part of the Algarve, started almost bang on time. The Bishop must have had an understanding with his boss, though, as the rain paused during the ceremony which was attended by a couple of hundred tourists and villagers bussed in for the event with a posse of wet and weary WAGS as witnesses.

A couple of short speeches, a touch of choral music, and the idiosyncratic statue was exposed to the elements for the foreseeable future. It will need to be enduring and hardy as its subject, though perhaps the form is not to everyone's taste.

Towards 4:30 pm we felt our obligations to our Patron Saint had been discharged, and so miraculously boarded just the right number of cars and returned to the Hotel for beer, showers and preprandial relaxation, before the evening's festivities.